Mirror shelf

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PS: I have used Google Translate on this section. It need proofreading and editing before complete. 

Our mirror shelf comes naturally complete and assembled, but if you want to build your own, you can follow these instructions.

The following materials are necessary:
A: 2x wooden 80x550x20 mm (wall brackets)
B: 2x 260x148x20mm wood panels (shelf pages)
C: 2x wooden 60x468x20 (desk top box)
D: 2x wooden 60x260x20 (desk top box)
E: 1x plywood 200x400x9 (tabletop)
F: 1x plywood 90x460x9 (drawer front)
G: 1x plywood 90x460x9 (bucket-backing)
H: 1x wood 90x460x11 (inner drawer front)
I: 2x wooden strip 90x230x15 (drawer sides)
J: 1x plywood 220x440x9 (drawer bottom)
K: 1x wooden strip 18x468x20 (lower panel)
L: 1x wooden strip 23x468x10 (drawer stops)
M: 1x OSB or chipboard, 220x468x18 (bottom under tray)
N: Tray lock box.
O: Knobs wooden (Available finished or machine one from round stock 33 mm).
P: Mirror, 460 x 750 mm. If the mirror does not have wood-frame behind, it must be created and attached with clips to the mirror surface.
Instructions:
Shelf sides:
The wood pieces “A” create a insert 10 mm deep, 50 mm from one end, 148mm x 80mm.
Woodblock B produce a insert 10mm deep, from the end and 80 mm in, the full width.
Glue together A & B – with a highly adhesive glue. It is important that the inlays are completely smooth so that the glued piece is completely level. When the glue is dry it should be lying on a flat surface without tipping. This is done for both shelf sides. Remember that the two bracket sides should be “mirrored” (ha ha – it’s a mirror shelf :-)) when assembling.
Then create two insets, 4 mm deep one for the table top – 20 mm wide and 260 mm long. This should be 7 mm from the top of the piece B. The second will be 90 mm below, and be 18mm wide. This is because the floor under the tray. The distance between these inlays will be 90 mm (for 90 mm height on the tray). It is important that these tracks are made carefully, as a wide track makes weaker gluing. It is best if this is completely accurate so that the table top can be pushed a little tight in the slot. It is integral that you grooves on the side where you see the whole surface of B. Otherwise, the recess in the piece A will be too thin (only 6 mm which bear the shelf).
Routing shelf sides. A is 80 mm wide, from the top down to just over recess shall be cut down to 40mm. It should be made a round transition piece to piece B. B should have rounded front corners, and cut down to 250 mm (ie 10 mm off the end going away). It should also be rounded in the lower region and a round transition to piece A. Top and bottom edges of A are rounded on the side that is not going to the wall. The lower pin of 50 mm, will also have a through hole from the end and into the wall of 4 mm (wall mount).
Table top:
C & D will have a insert that is 10 mm deep, and 60×60 mm – from both ends. Inset must be on the same side on both ends. together 4 work pieces = 8 insets. The top of the table is the side of the short frame lists that have recessed. This is so that the long sides should rest on recess and not hang in the glue.
C & D are glued together to a frame constituting the edges of the tabletop.
The tabletop shoots 1 cm out from the tray-front. When the bracket side is 25 cm, and the table top 26, the front edges on left and right side should be rounded to create a nice transition from shelf sites. Use a coffee mug and draw with pencil before you cut out, to example.
Create a recess in the wooden frame made. Top plate E should have rounded corners. You must create a recess in the wooden frame which is 4 mm larger on all sides with rounded corners corresponding to the arc in the corners of E. This recess will be just 9 mm deep. 4 mm short sides go into recess on both sides. Width that protrudes into the recess is 46 cm. The width of the table top is 40 cm, so it gets a 3 cm border between the plate and the edge on all sides.
Create as 6 x 4 mm thick pieces of wood used as spacers when plywood plate glued on the skids. Glue on with a strong adhesive, and spread the 6 spacers around so that the disc is lying right in the opening. The pieces must not be stuck when they should be removed once the glue is dry.
Use four clamps to push the plate against the frame. Let the glue dry. When the glue is dry, remove the spacers and fill the 4 mm gap with grout. Be careful not to stick grout veneer plate or wooden frame then grout will be in the joint. Let possibly be a small bump that can be sanded away when the sealant is dry. Careful not to brush too much on the plate when the veneer under the outer layer is a black layer that is not nice about it seems.
When dry, table top and play M pasted on the shelf sides. The table top has to fit into the upper inlays and M disc into the lower. Put glue in the inlays, fit top and bottom, and pressure along with two major forces until the glue is dry. Use in an angle to make sure the pieces are perpendicular to each other.
The piece M is slightly shorter than the table top 3 cm shorter. It should be right up against the wall of the ledge. Do not mount the K & L until the tray is mounted.
Tray:
The pieces G, H, and I – about a 9 mm recessed, 4 mm deep. This should be 5 mm from the edge along the side. This is the track to the bottom drawer J. staying 2 x 4 mm holes at each end of G and H. These holes should be 7.5 mm from the edge and 20 mm from each end in width. This is for the screws that turn the inner front and back piece to the sides. Use strong adhesive in the groove bottom and glue & assemble tray. Drawer front.
Drawer front: create keyhole and holes of the bucket handle. The lock box we use has a key hole 4 mm on the side of the center of the lock box. Keyhole will be in the middle (ie 230 mm from the ends of the drawer front. Mark on the top of the drawer the position of the lock box. Then create a 4 mm hole for the screw handle.
Drawer front pasted on the inner drawer front in the pre-assembled drawer. Be sure that the parts are exactly apart. Drill hole for the button through the inner drawer front and install a screw (M4) / nut / washers temporarily as extra pressure bond. Use clamps to squeeze the glue joint and let it dry.
When dry, cutting out room for the lock box and a slot for the solenoid in the lock under the top plate. Remember that the key hole is slightly off-center on the lock box so that roughing is properly positioned relative to the keyhole. Make sure to have clamps during this roughing. Routing under the table top is made slightly deeper than needed. This is because the solenoid pops up when the lock is unlocked. About a roughing the basic solenoid pushes against the top plate and the key is hard to unlock.
Check that the tray fits. If done acurate, the work will fit just right. It can be any tight – plaster down so that the tray slides easily, but not too much so as to slip over the tray.
With the tray in half position: Install drawer stops L. This piece is 23 mm wide – cut out a rounding at the ends so that the end – and about 3-4 cm into being just 18 mm wide. Drill 3 x 4 mm holes and countersink them so that the bucket can stop screwed to the OSB plate in the bottom. Check the drawer glides with drawer stopper fitted before gluing. Glue and screw the tray in half position. Glue K as the play surface drawer stopper. Check that the tray is getting on, and that no glue-spill glue stuck drawer. The drawer stopper and play K should fit perfectly into the lower milled in B. When the drawer is fully extended to backend stop at the widest point of the drawer stop. When the drawer is left, the front edge of the drawer stop to stop on the way into the tray.
Finishing
Use coarse / fine sandpaper to sanding down any rough spots, traces of saw blades, etc. Brush the edges of matrial so that you get a slightly rounded edge. Transitions by insets should be completely smooth, but if not it must be sanded so you can drag your finger across the transitions and knowing that it is completely smooth. Discontinue any sanding with coarse sandpaper to fine so that the surface is fine.
Mirror assembly:
Drill 2 holes in the piece A for mounting of the mirror. Staying as a hole for wall mounting from front and behind the hole for the mirror. Tighten the mirror.
It all coated with a clear lacquer before mounting.
If you use CNC machine for the relevant Routing can later download the tool path files for the different parts here. This published later.
Best of luck.
Ole Kristian Ek Hornnes

This post is also available in: Norwegian Bokmål

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